Brick tunnels, the bed of a lost stream, and four centuries of history hidden beneath the sidewalks of Buenos Aires. Discover the most fascinating accidental archaeological discovery in Buenos Aires and how to delve into its mysteries—because what was a mystery centuries ago is now open for you to visit.
The history of Buenos Aires is literally buried beneath our feet, and sometimes a simple coincidence brings the past to light. That’s exactly what happened in 1985 in the heart of San Telmo, when a businessman named Jorge Eckstein bought an old, abandoned mansion on Defensa Street.
The 19th-century property was in ruins, with no floors and filled with rubble. When workers began digging, the ground gave way, and what appeared beneath turned out to be a major discovery: a network of vaulted tunnels, cisterns, and artifacts spanning more than four centuries of Buenos Aires history.
A forgotten stream and tunnels leading to early Buenos Aires
Without realizing it, Eckstein had stumbled upon the bed of the Zanjón de Granados, one of the natural streams that crossed the city during the colonial era and flowed into the Río de la Plata. During the 19th century, this stream had been piped and covered over, falling into oblivion beneath the neighborhood’s unchecked growth.
After two decades of excavation and restoration work, underground labyrinths, colonial courtyards, indigenous artifacts, pottery, and tiles were uncovered—all of which tell the story of daily life in Buenos Aires from 1536 to 1900.
A Trip to the Heart of San Telmo: How to Visit It
Today, the Zanjón de Granados is an architectural complex and a spectacular on-site museum that looks like something straight out of a mystery movie. Exploring its brick tunnels illuminated by lights, crossing bridges and walkways below street level, is one of the most incredible immersive experiences you can have.
Access is by guided tour only, and tours last approximately one hour. They take place several days a week, and additional tour times are usually added on weekends. You can buy tickets directly at the door or check prices and book in advance on their official website.
- 📍 Where: Defensa 755 (San Telmo).
