If you are looking for country air, Creole cuisine, and places where time seems to have stood still, you should know that less than 200 km from Buenos Aires, among villages and rural landscapes, there are old pulperías and general stores that have been restored and now function as true temples of good food. We have put together this small map of the best pulperías near CABA for you.
1. Cazón: the heart of Saladillo
One of the highlights of the circuit is Cazón, just 15 km from the city of Saladillo. There are two must-see stops there.
Lo de Tenca operates in an old historic bowling alley that has been restored by its owners, who have kept the original aesthetic of checkered tablecloths, antique objects, hanging hats, and village spirit intact. The menu includes Argentine classics: picadas, empanadas, asado, and homemade desserts. It is open on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays at noon and tends to get crowded, so it’s best to go early.
👉IG @lodetenca
A few blocks away, La Pulpería de Cazón combines Creole food with popular music, gaucho books, and regional products from different provinces. It’s one of those places where you don’t just go to eat, but to stay and chat for a long time.
👉IG @lapulperiadecazon
2. Álvarez de Toledo: living history and rural culture
In this small rural area is El Puntal, a former general store from 1930 that now functions as a restaurant and museum. Worn wooden floors, original counters, siphons, cans, old radios, and accounting books turn the place into a time capsule.
👉IG @elpuntaltoledo
Nearby is La Peña del Oxidado, a more modern establishment with a strong rural identity. Gastronomy, art, photography, live music, and a large courtyard with a fire pit make this space a cultural meeting point in the heart of the countryside.
👉IG @eloxidado2025
3. Polvaredas: the village bar-museum
With just 300 inhabitants, Polvaredas has one of the most picturesque places on the route: the Bar Luna Park. It is a bar, museum, and bocce court all at the same time. Each object on display tells a story about the village, and the atmosphere is so authentic that it seems like something out of a movie. Ideal for a short stop, a drink, and then continuing on your journey.
👉IG @barlunapark .polvaredas
4. El Payador: gastronomy, music, and summer nights
Photo: press
On the Cicaré access road is Pulpería El Payador, one of the largest and most active in the area. It operates in an old mansion surrounded by trees and offers empanadas al disco, meats, pastas, and homemade desserts, always accompanied by live music. On Saturday nights, the patio fills with people enjoying outdoor shows in a relaxed, family atmosphere.
👉IG @elpayador23