Walking through Plaza San Martín in the Retiro neighborhood means constantly stumbling upon history, but there is one building that stands out above all others. With a façade that directly evokes the Louvre Palace in Paris, the Palacio Paz (perhaps better known as the headquarters of the Círculo Militar) is the greatest example of Buenos Aires’ Belle Époque and, in its heyday, was the largest and most luxurious family residence in all of Argentina.
Unlike many of Buenos Aires’ aristocratic palaces that were demolished or converted into offices, this 12,000-square-meter treasure has managed to preserve its splendor intact. And best of all: you can walk through its gilded doors to explore the interior.
A palace built for a president who never became president and never got to see it
The palace’s history began in 1902, when José C. Paz (founder of the newspaper La Prensa, philanthropist, and diplomat) commissioned French architect Louis-Marie Henri Sortais to build it. His ambition knew no bounds: Paz wanted a residence that would live up to his presidential aspirations.
The design included four monumental wings, more than a hundred rooms, a dining room for 60 people, and building materials—from marble and wood to hardware and door handles—sourced exclusively from Europe.
However, fate dealt it an ironic blow, as José C. Paz died in Monaco in 1912—just two years before the mansion was inaugurated—without ever having lived there or become president of the nation.
His widow and children lived in the residence until 1938, when the national government acquired the property to convert it into the headquarters of the Military Circle.
What you’ll find on the tour and why you have to go
Stepping through the entrance of the Círculo Militar on Santa Fe Avenue is literally like traveling back to Paris in 1900. During the guided tour, you’ll be able to walk through the spaces designed by Buenos Aires’ early 20th-century elite, including:
- The Golden Hall: Inspired by the Palace of Versailles, it is a masterpiece of wood paneling, mirrors, and Baccarat crystal chandeliers.
- The Grand Hall of Honor: A circular space crowned by an impressive dome that takes your breath away the moment you step inside.
- The Arms Room and the Dining Room of Honor: Where the original furniture, tapestries, and Carrara marble sculptures are on display.
- The Interior Garden: A courtyard hidden from the chaos of Retiro, perfect for imagining the life of high society a century ago.
How to Visit the Palacio Paz
If you’re passionate about architecture, history, or simply want to take spectacular photos, be sure to schedule this visit. The Círculo Militar organizes guided tours (with limited capacity) so you can explore its main halls.
- 📍 Where: Av. Santa Fe 750 (Retiro, across from Plaza San Martín).
- ⏰ Hours and Tickets: We recommend checking availability and current rates and reserving your spot through the Military Circle’s social media channels.
